Pulling together real stracciatella

Image courtesy of The New York Times

Perhaps love was in the air. I was on my honeymoon in Italy, after all. But when I took my first bite of just-made stracciatella, thin strands of fresh mozzarella soaked in heavy cream, I knew I had found another true love.

That first day, last year, we ate it with juicy summer tomatoes. The next day, we smeared it on bread and topped it with fig preserves. One night before bed, I ate what was left in the container with a spoon.

Back home, though, the good stuff was hard to find, and I couldn’t understand why. Fresh mozzarella is everywhere. So is burrata, a ball of fresh mozzarella stuffed with stracciatella. Even the imported product lacked the tang and richness I remembered.

Happily, that is changing, thanks to the cheesemakers Rynn and David Caputo, who I profiled today in the New York Times. The Caputos, who are in their 30s, spent years perfecting their pasta filata, or stretched-curd cheeses, before opening Caputo Brothers Creamery in Spring Grove, Pa., in 2011. While it would have been easy to sell the familiar mozzarella and its fashionable and very profitable cousin, burrata, Ms. Caputo is on a quest to crown stracciatella the new “it” cheese: one that provides the wow factor of burrata, but is far easier (and less expensive) to make.

I like to use stracciatella in any dish that calls for fresh mozzarella. The creaminess pairs beautifully with tomatoes. But it is as delicious with roasted peppers or grilled peaches and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. Stracciatella also melts like a dream: perfect for pizza or a standout cheeseburger.

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Want people to eat their veggies? Prescribe them.

In the fight against obesity, many solutions are more stick than carrot: taxes on sodas, bans of junk food in schools and, most recently, New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s proposal to ban the sale of sugary drinks in servings larger than 16 ounces. But an innovative produce program does just the opposite — and it’s working.

Wholesome Wave’s fruit and vegetable prescription program lets doctors prescribe vouchers worth $1 per day for low-income families to spend at farmers markets. Now in its third year, already has shown remarkable results: Of the 1,200 participants in six towns and cities in the Northeast, 66 percent said they ate more fruits and vegetables as a result of the program and 38 percent improved their body mass index, a standard measure used to estimate healthy body weight. The program brought new customers to farmers markets. More than half of families that received fruit-and-vegetable prescriptions had never, or rarely, been to a farmers market.

All the details are in my latest Smarter Food column. What do you think? Do carrots work better than sticks when it comes to healthy eating?

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Saving food, one sheet of paper at a time

My latest Smarter Food column in the Washington Post highlights FreshPaper, an innovative new product that helps your produce last longer in the fridge.

FreshPaper looks like small, square paper towels. They are infused with a mixture of organic spices and botanicals that inhibit bacterial and fungal growth and extend the life of quickly perishable produce. One sheet of maple-scented FreshPaper helped my basket of very ripe strawberries last more than a week in the fridge. A sheet tossed into a plastic bag with cilantro helped the herb last about 10 days.

Read all about it and the super-smart 27-year-old who invented it, Kavita Shukla, on the Washington Post. Distribution is ramping up fast. But wherever you are, you can buy it on FreshPaper’s site, www.fenugreen.com

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Produce to the people

I’ve argued many times that, contrary to the conventional wisdom, access to good food alone won’t make people eat it. Though fashionable, pricey plans to lure big-box grocery stores to poor neighborhoods won’t beat back obesity.

But it does make sense to focus on lower-cost, flexible and efficient ways to improve food access. The Green Cart program in New York does just that. In my latest Smarter Food column in the Washington Post, I look at how and why green carts work so well. The program required no changes in zoning and no new bureaucracy. Potential vendors apply for permits through the same process as someone who wants to sell hot dogs or soft pretzels. And barriers to entry are low. On average it costs vendors about $3,000 to get up and running. No wonder other cities — Philadelphia, Washington D.C., Chicago and others — are adapting the model to work for their needy populations.  Read the whole story here and let me know what you think of New York’s Green Carts and other food-access initiatives.

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Do we need more advice about eating well?

Image courtesy of the New York Times

Does the American public need more information about healthy eating? Or do we pretty much know what we need to about food — and still eat poorly for other reasons, like living in a “food desert” or being too busy for “slow food”? That’s the question the New York Times asked me and several other pundits on healthy eating in its latest Room For Debate forum.

My answer: Yes and no. Most Americans know what to eat but getting them to change their habits is the hard part. But as I saw last year while reporting a book on what people eat, and why they eat it, in Huntington, W.Va., many Americans do have access to, and can afford, better food. They just choose not to eat it. Or rather, they choose not to take the time to shop for it, to plan and cook their meals, when they can hit the drive-through or have a pizza delivered or pop a Stouffer’s entrée into the microwave.

Does this mean the battle is lost? On the contrary. A new and growing group of studies point to a third way to persuade Americans to make small but essential changes to their diets and lifestyles. Based on behavior-change theories — a kind of grassroots behavioral economics for public health — these strategies address a range of personal, cultural and environmental factors that affect what people eat. These strategies, I argue, help Americans to understand not only how to eat well but also how to incorporate a healthy diet into their own lives.

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How not to fix school lunch

British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver wouldn’t win a popularity contest in Huntington, West Virginia. But as I’ve reported his whirlwind visit to film a reality TV show about the “most unhealthy city in America” in 2010 did make an impact. Two years after Oliver’s startling and deliberately inflammatory images of kids here dumping trays of fresh food untouched into the trash, students in Cabell County happily sat down to meals of from-scratch chicken quesadillas and brown rice and creamy chicken and noodles served with freshly made coleslaw, and steamed broccoli with parmesan.

Other West Virginia counties paid attention. Last August, Rhonda McCoy, the head of food service for Cabell County schools, ran a training sessions for seven of the state’s poorest counties, teaching the cooks how to make multi-use tomato sauces and tricks to cut up mountains of salad greens safely and efficiently. In return, each county agreed to cook breakfast and lunch from scratch five days a week for a year and serve free breakfast and lunch to all students.

The new food has been an unqualified success. Students have embraced the new recipes. And the number of students eating breakfast has nearly doubled, bringing in more than a million extra federal dollars in the first four months.

In Kanawha County, home to the state capitol of Charleston, things did not go so smoothly, reports an excellent article in the West Virginia Gazette. The cooks weren’t trained. And many (though not all) were furious that they were being asked to work harder–chopping vegetables by hand and making sauces from scratch–instead of opening boxes and popping trays in the microwave. At one school, the article reports, “they served a pizza that’s supposed to be finely sliced, sautéed vegetables with melted cheese. Instead, [cooks] piled chunks of raw vegetables and cheese on it, about three or four inches high, and called it scratch cooking.” As one administrator observed:  “No wonder the kids didn’t like it.”

Within months, according to the article, protesting school cooks packed Kanawha school board meetings. At some schools, students quit eating school meals in droves. With fewer students eating, Kanawha County’s food program is projected to make about $350,000 less than it did the previous year, according to the state Department of Education.

It’s easy to see why schools want to jump on the eat-healthy bandwagon. Cabell and other West Virginia counties have shown that it can be done — even on a shoestring budget. But changing the way children eat at school requires thoughtful training, investment in equipment, and  buy-in from both workers and students. Kanawha County is a case study of how the rush to change is anything but a recipe for success.

Posted in Food Politics, Huntington | Leave a comment
  • About Me

    Jane BlackI am a Brooklyn-based food writer who covers food politics, trends and sustainability issues. My work appears in the Washington Post, (where I was a staff writer), the New York Times, Slate, New York magazine and other publications. On this site, you will find my blog and links to my written work and my Washington Post column, Smarter Food.
      

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