Frozen dinners shoot for delicious

In the 21st century battle for American appetites, one clear loser has emerged: TV dinners. Sales have tumbled over the last five years, with many customers opting for higher-end fast-food like Chipotle, and millennials, who were raised to equate fresh with healthy, avoiding frozen meals altogether. So dire is the situation that this spring, food-manufacturing rivals including ConAgra and Nestlé came together to launch a multimillion-dollar marketing campaign to salvage the industry’s reputation. Its slogan: Frozen: How Fresh Stays Fresh.

They have a point. Freezing is not inherently wrong; in fact, the technology brilliantly preserves flavors and nutrients. But perhaps a better strategy would be to hand over the PR to a new generation of companies that is working to satisfy modern appetites. Some stand out for their taste and sophisticated flavors. (I would happily serve chocolate souffle’s from Babeth’s Feast at my next dinner party.) Others limit fat and sodium, use antibiotic-free and humanely raised meats, and liberally employ hip “nutrient-dense” ingredients such as pomegranate and kale. In short: You’ll be hard pressed to find what author and food guru Michael Pollan calls “foodlike substances” in the frozen dinners I write about the Wall Street Journal this week. Things are looking up.

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If the low-fat diet is a lie, what the hell should we eat?

For almost 40 years, the U.S. government, public-health experts, nutritionists, and family doctors insisted that a low-fat diet was the key to a long and healthy life—and we listened. We guiltlessly chowed down on pretzels and baked potatoes. We listened to gurus like Susan Powter (stop the insanity!) and suffered through the Master Cleanse, 10 days of nothing but lemon water spiked with cayenne and maple syrup. And what do we have to show for it? After decades of nutritional torture, more than two thirds of American adults are overweight or obese. A tenth of Americans have type 2 diabetes, a once uncommon disease in which the body cannot produce enough insulin to regulate sugar in the blood. And heart disease, the killer that shooed us down the low-fat path in the first place, remains the number-one cause of death in the U.S.

In this month’s Elle Magazine, I look at the new science in support of a low-carb diet and wonder: If the low-fat diet didn’t work, is there any reason to believe that scientists have it right this time? My answer: There is no one diet that will make us lean and healthy. Every woman has to use common sense and listen to her body.

As the twentieth-century critic H. L. Mencken once said: “There is always an easy solution to every human problem—neat, plausible, and wrong.”

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A win win for agriculture

Modern agriculture is all about tradeoffs. Monocrops are more “efficient,” but we lose the benefits of biodiversity. Irrigation allows drought-ridden California to keep growing strawberries and salad greens, but groundwater reserves have fallen to record lows.

What if we could develop a kind of farming with no tradeoffs? An agricultural system that produces healthy soils, high yields and a net-negative effect on greenhouse gases? A growing chorus of experts says that agricultural Shangri-La does exist, and it’s called carbon farming.

In my latest column for the Stone Barns Center, I look at the the promise of carbon sequestration in agriculture. After all, Timothy La Salle, a sustainable ag consultant told me: “Even if we shut down all of our carbon emissions today, we’d still need to capture what is in the atmosphere. Nothing is proven to do that except for one thing: photosynthesis. We have to take what we have released over millennia from the soil and put it back in.”

I’m not the only one talking about carbon farming, or resilient agriculture as it is also called. My hero Michael Pollan is a fan.

See what you think.

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Sam Kass says it’s time for the food movement to grow up

On Sunday Nov. 7, the Washington Post published an op-ed calling for a national policy for food, health and well-being. “How we produce and consume food has a bigger impact on Americans’ health and well-being than any other human activity,” wrote its authors, journalists Mark Bittman and Michael Pollan, agronomist Ricardo Salvador and the former U.N. Special Rapporteur on the right to food Oliver De Schutter. “Yet the United States has no food policy.”

The idea wwas broad and ambitious. It was hard to imagine that anyone who cares about food would argue with them.

But there was one person who did. A pretty important person: Sam Kass, the executive director of Let’s Move! and the White House’s senior policy advisor for nutrition policy. Five days later, in a speech at the New York Times Food for Tomorrow conference, held at Stone Barns Center, Kass argued that to move further, food advocates must be more sophisticated and strategic. “We must move from these lofty theories that set unrealistic expectations about what change should look like to pragmatic, meaningful steps that reflect the political reality that we have to operate in.”

In other words: It’s time for the food movement to grow up. A set of principles won’t change Washington’s approach to food. Bills that can pass the new Republican-held Congress will.

Kass’s message resonated with me because six years ago, in the heady days after President Obama was first elected, I wrote my own op-ed in the Washington Post that made a similar point. Now that we finally had a president who knew the price of arugula, I argued, it was important to talk about slashing obesity rates, helping small farmers and teaching kids about food. But to be successful, the movement needed specific policy asks that a broad range of constituencies could rally behind.

In my latest column for the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture I report on what Kass says the food movement has to do to become a political force. And I steal an idea from Michael Pollan for what a good first step will be.

Read and let me know what you think.

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“Prune” is a book for cooks

Gabrielle Hamilton at Prune (Photo courtesty of The Washington Post)

A meal at Prune is emblematic of its chef-owner Gabrielle Hamilton’s approach to food: honest, unconventional and defiantly unpretentious. The same is true of her new cookbook, “Prune” (Random House), published to coincide with the restaurant’s 15th anniversary. The book was conceived as the antithesis of the “food porn” that celebrity chefs routinely use to cement their images. “Prune” has no lush photos of Hamilton shopping at farmers markets, or even literary essays, despite the fact that she is the author of the critically acclaimed memoir “Blood, Bones and Butter.”

Instead, it is an old-fashioned cookbook because it includes pretty much just recipes — a kind of culinary companion to her memoir (in which she refused to include recipes, much to her publisher’s dismay). “Cookbooks are a little confused now,” Hamilton said. “They are art books or half-memoir, half-recipes. This is a cookbook. It tells you what we do to get our food to taste this way.”

Read the whole story about Hamilton and her genre-defying cookbook in the Washington Post Food section. We also ran recipes for Hamilton’s fabulous spaghetti carbonara and omelet with caraway and sour cream.

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Meat on the side

Chefs around the country, and the globe, are pushing meat from the center of the plate—and sometimes off it altogether. Trade, in Boston, serves polenta topped with fall squash, peppers, scallions and a scattering of pancetta, while at Zahav, in Philadelphia, roasted eggplant comes drizzled with lamb’s tongue vinaigrette. At New York’s Dovetail, a “vegetable-focused” menu features cured carrots with duck breast, cashews and black garlic. In September, Alain Ducasse, the godfather of French cuisine, announced that his flagship restaurant at the Plaza Athénée in Paris would remove most meat from the menu in favor of organic vegetables and seafood.

In short, an haute restaurant meal no longer has to deliver 8 ounces (or more) of meat plus a vegetable side. Increasingly, it is the opposite.

In my latest piece in the Wall Street Journal, I look at what’s driving this trend: a quest for healthier meals, concerns about the environment, and rising meat prices. Even better, I offer three fantastic recipes for dinners with minimal meat. There’s the polenta with pancetta and shaved squash (pictured above), mussels with borlotti beans and buckwheat noodles with Thai grilled chicken. Check them out. You will thank me.

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  • About Me

    Jane BlackI am a Brooklyn-based food writer who covers food politics, trends and sustainability issues. My work appears in the Washington Post, (where I was a staff writer), the New York Times, Slate, New York magazine and other publications. On this site, you will find my blog and links to my written work and my Washington Post columns.

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